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Frequently Asked Questions

By Sharla R. Hicks ©1999

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In the order of importance, I do the following to make machine quilting with Exotic threads more manageable. Occasional breakage is to be expected, even under the best of circumstances!

NOTE: What is UNREASONABLE BREAKAGE? Unreasonable breakage is breakage that makes you want to scream--tear your hair out--and throw the sewing machine out the door after about 10 minutes of working with exotics threads that just will not sssttttoooopppp breaking! The following should help you manage that uncontrollable urge of trashing a perfectly good sewing machine.

Hint 1: Selecting the correct needle is imperative! In many cases a Large Eyed Sewing Machine Needle reduces the friction on Metallic Threads resulting in less breakage -- not all breakage will be gone, expect occasional breakage to continue.

Consider using a Top Stitch Needle, size 90 (14) or 100 (16). Also check out the new needles available designed specifically for machine embroidery that have a special grove and larger eye. If you can not find any of these needles, use a Jean needle, size 100 (16). If unreasonable breakage persists (not occasional breakage), go to Hint 2.

Hint 2: If unreasonable breakage continues after completing Hint 1, loosen the Top Tension down a half step at a time until the breakage is reduced.

When using the darning foot (freehand work), expect more breakage (not a lot more, but some). When using a Walking Foot or a Standard Embroidery Foot that fits the sewing machine a more stable tension is created, therefore, expect much less breakage. If unreasonable breakage persists (not occasional breakage), go to Hint 3.

Hint 3: If unreasonable breakage continues after completing Hints 1 and 2, setup a bead of silicon on the surface of the sewing machine thread guides. (Note: This does not eliminate occasional breakage, but it helps greatly.)

Cut a crochet thread (or similar heavy thread) 12" to 18" long. Run a bead of Sewer's Aide or Needle Lube on the center 3-4". Use the lubricated section of thread like dental floss and floss all threading points on the top of the sewing machine, this includes the tension disc. REAPPLY whenever unreasonable breakage starts up again. If unreasonable breakage persists (not occasional breakage), go to Hint 4.

Hint 4: If unreasonable breakage continues after completing Hints 1 and 2 and 3, use the following technique. Some machines are more sensitive than others and require the same thread on the top and in the bobbin or require using a more stable thread in the bobbin.

To see which works best, experiment with regular, nylon, lingerie or metallic thread in the bobbin. My last choice is metallic in the bobbin because of the expense. If unreasonable breakage persists (not occasional breakage), go to the next section.
 

Use the following Method for
Metallic Threads that are Very Fragile!

Hint 1: Very fragile Metallic Threads break less when wound on the bobbin and used in the bobbin case.

To have the metallic appear on the front, consider the following simple yet effective method: Use a large print on the back of the quilt and trace the outlines. This gives a wonderful overall design on the front of the quilt in metallic.

Hint 2: When the Metallic Thread is on the bobbin, students always say to me, "How can I follow the quilting pattern, it’s on the front?" To transfer a quilting pattern from the FRONT of the Quilt to the BACK of the quilt, use the following two-step method:

Step 1: Using Nylon thread on the top and in the bobbin, stitch over the quilting design on the front of the quilt with a stitch length setting of 2 (10-12 for American made machines).

Step 2: Then, change to the Metallic Bobbin and from the BACK of the quilt, stitch over the previously sewn nylon lines. The nylon will blend with the Metallic Thread and not show. Or, if you missed the nylon line, just pull it out. (Note: Short stitch lengths are harder to pull out so follow the recommendation in Step 1 above. )

To create textures with Metallic Threads experiment with different designs using the darning foot and freehand designs. Try hearts, flowers, zigzags, swirls, spirals, or any other pattern you can think up, even try writing your name or little hidden messages over and over to create the quilting pattern.

Some threads can present problems when winding a bobbin.  Here are some tips on how to deal with various types of metallic thread:

• Elastic Thread (full bobbin): Evenly hand wind with tension on the elastic thread as you are winding it on the bobbin.
• Fragile Metallic (1/2-to full bobbin--these are often very thin threads and bobbins fill more thread than regular thread, so 1/2 bobbin is often enough): Slowly and carefully wind the bobbin - sometimes hand guiding the filling of the bobbin on the sewing machine is necessary – you will probably have to try several different threading techniques to find the one that works. If you are unable to get a clean machine wound bobbin, hand wind.
• Thin Yarn (full bobbin; example, needle punch yarn): Evenly hand wind the bobbin firmly.
• Pearl Crown Rayon (full bobbin): -- Wind carefully on the machine, but you may have to hand wind.
• DMC 30 Crochet Thread: Wind carefully on the machine, but you may have to hand wind.
• Ribbon Floss (full bobbin): Some people are successful winding this thread on the machine. If not, evenly hand wind the bobbin.
• Decor (full bobbin): Use the Machine first. This usually causes little problems but if it does, hand wind.
• Heavy Metallic Thread (full bobbin): Wind carefully on the machine, but you may have to hand wind.
• Clear Nylon Thread (1/2 bobbin--don't cheat, you'll be sorry, especially on the larger bobbins! A 1/2 bobbin of thin nylon is much more than a bobbin of regular thread!): Wind slowly and carefully on the machine. Winding the bobbin too fast can break the bobbin, expand the bobbin so it does not fit properly, or embed the thread back into itself, rendering the thread on the bobbin useless!

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Metallics

Metallics are the rage and Soft Expressions carries several lines to meet the glitzy needs of the embellishment quilter and embroiders Look at the metallic line included Robison-Anton Metallic , Superior Glitter and Metallic, and WonderFil you will be delighted with what you find.

Superior's Razzle & Dazzle endorsed by Ricky Timms Great for Bobbin Work

Wonderfil's Razzle & Dazzle 3 ply rayon with metallic strand Great for Bobbin Work

Superior offers Metallics Superior Glitters (hologram metallic)

Metallics Robison Anton Excellent strength & fray resistant

Schmetz Needles every style and size	Frequently Asked Question	Frequently Asked Question
	Metallic Thread and the SewingMachine: Use for Embellishments and Quilting by Sharla R. Hicks	Invisible Machine Appliqué, Quilt binding, and Cathedral Windows using Adjustable Zipper Foot by Sharla R. Hicks

	ArtBin Bobbin Box	ArtBin Sew-lutions	Bobbin Saver Blue, Red OR Lavendar	Dura Tote Art Box very light weight Rigid Sides & Easy to carrry
	Needles & Threads & Bobbins, Oh, My! A Quick Reference for Today's Quilter by Nancy Goldsworthy	SideWinder™ Portable Bobbin Winder	Stack 'n Store Bobbin Tower

Featherweight 221 The Perfect Portable by Nancy Johnson-Srebo	Body Rite™ Posture Please	Bendable Bright Light Bracket Kit For Bendable Bright Light	Schmetz Needles every style and size	Machine OR Craft on Wheels ergonomic design for better back posture
Magnistitch Attach directly to sewing machine			Supreme Free-Motion Slider LaPierre Studio LLC	SewSlip Slider

1/4" Seam Guides for Sewing Machine

Qtools Sewing Edge Repositionable Vinyl creates edge for Perfect Scant 1/4" Seam Allowance

Perfect Piecing Seam Guide Perfect Scant 1/4" Seams

Seams Sew Fast Mfg: O'Lipfa

SixthFinger Stiletto Mfg: Colonial Needle Co.

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