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Invisible Machine Appliqué,
Quilt binding, and Cathedral Windows
using Adjustable Zipper Foot

Step-by-step tutorial instruction for setting up your sewing machine, using an adjustable zipper foot to do invisible machine appliqué and monofilament thread for an invisible stitch. Also good for binding a quilt and doing Cathedral Windows.

The monofilament thread and zipper foot are available in our store.

Also check out the quilt software reviews by Sharla Hicks and our 10-25% off discounts on popular quilt software titles, books and notions.



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Invisible Machine Appliqué,
Quilt binding, and Cathedral Windows
using Adjustable Zipper Foot

By Sharla R. Hicks © 1998-2001



Find in our Store: Zipper foot & Monofilament thread

Note: Other feet may also work, but I have found that a foot that allows you to guide around an edge is best. Check out your sewing accessories and see.

The following Technique works best when using some type of foundation for the appliqué like Freezer Paper, binding the edge on a quilt, and Cathedral Windows.

Note: Sharla teaches an ONLINE Cathedral Windows Class that covers design, fabric selection and construction at QuiltUniversity.com.Check the Quilt University Class schedule for the next class.

 

Equipment & Supply Requirements

  • Zigzag sewing machine needed.
  • Blindhem setting best but not essential to technique.
  • Adjustable Zipper Foot (the old fashioned kind with the adjustable screw on the back)
  • Monofilament thread (clear or smoke to match fabric)
  • Some form of paper foundation Appliqué pattern with seam allowance turned under (freezer paper or basted paper will work)

Instruction

  1. SLOWLY wind a half a bobbin with clear or smoke fine monofilament thread depending on how light or dark the background fabric is. Use fine monofilament as the top thread also.

Normal Straight Stitch Setting for Quilt Binding

  • Set your sewing machine at 10-12 stitches to the inch (on metric machines this is 2 - 2.5)

Blindhem Settings for Invisible Stitch

Note: If your sewing machine does not have a blind hem setting or is programmed so that the blind hem stitch is too wide to be invisible and you do not have a double needle setting, use the Zigzag settings.

  • Set your sewing machine at 20-25 stitches to the inch (on metric machines this is close to 0)
  • 1/2 to 1 zigzag width
  • If needed, select the double needle setting
  • NOTE: The stitch length is very close because you want each bite of the zigzag to be no more than 1/4" or less apart, just as in hand appliqué.  The extra benefit of the close stitches is that they contribute greatly to the invisible look.  So feel comfortable that the short stitch is okay.  Trust me here, this is the recommended stitch length for invisible machine appliqué.  I know it sounds short, but it works well.

Zigzag Only Settings for Invisible Stitch

For those of you with a basic zigzag machine without fancy stitches, you can use the bite of each zig to catch the Window Pane edge and the Pane insert as you zigzag around each pane.  I have found this technique works when you have no blind hem stitch or you are unable to work around a preprogrammed blind hem stitch width.

  • Stitch length 12-15 stitches to the inches or 2 on metric machines.
  • 1/2 to 1 zigzag width
  • Note: Tying off at the beginning and the end is essential when using the zigzag setting because it is much looser than the blind hem settings and WILL pull out if not tied off.

Sewing Instructions

1. Setup the adjustable zipperfoot to do the sewing method so that it follows the ridge of the binding or appliqué piece:

Sew a line of stitching
to see the needle relationship to the "Adjustable Zipper Foot". Note: To prevent broken needles, adjust the zipper foot to be far away from needle for this test run.

2. Then: Loosen the screw and move the "adjustable zipperfoot" so the needle is half out and half in the indentation on the base of zipper foot -- test a line of stitching and the needle should be sewing right along on the very outside ridge. IF NOT, adjust until it does! Now your are ready to sew!

3. Sew with zipperfoot lined up with and sewing along the outside ridge. NOTE: The ridge of paper, quilt binding or Cathedral Window will act as the guide for the foot. On the invisible stitch, the bite of the zigzag will take a tiny bite out of the edge. See in the picture how the tiny stitch does NOT show.

4. When completed, remove appliqué template paper if necessary and iron lightly toward the stitching, this will shift the fabric ever so slightly and make the stitching even more invisible.



Find in our Store: Zipper foot & Monofilament thread

Item Code: M02
Weight: 0.3 lbs.

10% off: $3.15
MSRP: $3.46


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FAQ: Quilting Topics by Sharla Hicks

  • ARTICLE: Metallic thread:  Use in Embellishments and Quilting by Sharla Hicks. Hints and tips on using the sewing machine and appropriate needle sizes for different metallic threads.
  • ARTICLE: Invisible Machine Appliqué, Quilt Binding, and Cathedral Windows by Sharla Hicks. Learn how to use the adjustable zipper foot and invisible threads readily available on the market to make a hand look with the sewing machine.

 


 

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